June’s passed with delightful calm. Where May was constant motion and a different focus weekly, this last month has been a relaxing motion by inertia. The month divides nearly in half: we both worked through July 13, flew to Paris the next day, and have since honeymooned. This trip is as well a constant motion, but that of vacation and travel — not obligation.
Darien started the month studying for the WSET Level Three while I prepared for Andrew to start the following week. Andrew started and Darien had her exam both on Tuesday June 10. The two weeks felt packed, but less with activity and more densely with work. I took Milo to boarding Thursday morning, and my colleagues threw a send-off happy hour on the thirteenth following our Friday Demo Day. My shoulders lightened.[1]
Travel was easy. We flew from Austin-Bergstrom to Cincinnati[2] and from there to Charles de Gaulle. Flights were easy and timely, though we sat in the midst of at least four screaming toddlers on the overseas flight. They harmonized well despite their relative inexperience, and by the end of the flight would’ve put your local barbershop quarter to shame. Customs at CDG was ridiculous, but after two hours we briefly emerged into the airport to then take the metro to Hôtel Taylor.
Luckily our room was ready early. We crashed for a good four hours, and emerged to walk down to the Seine. We stopped at a couple of brasseries along the way, failed to get a table at Chez Janou, ate a passable dinner a random place along the Seine,[3] walked by Les Nautes to realize they were closed for a private event, and eventually retired to Stolly’s where we sat next to a newly-retired Houstonian[4] and were regaled with tales of his recent misdeeds. He was formerly an oil-and-gas engineer, wearing IC Berlin glasses with no idea what he was appreciating. A dude grabbed my butt in that tight space, winked at me, and then congratulated me on my honeymoon. We got the metro back, and slept a full night.
This was my first time staying in the Tenth. It’s lovely. That next day we walked a good sixteen miles from our hotel to the Louvre, through the Tuileries, up the Champs Élysées to the Arc du Triomphe, to Place de la Concorde, then the Eiffel Tower, then Rue Cler,[5] and then along the Seine. We angled towards Notre Dame, but decided to cut our walk short realizing the sixteen miles was pretty damn good and we could be tired if we wanted — it’s our honeymoon, and we reserve the right to do what we want. I don’t remember dinner.
Tuesday was a day trip to Champagne country. We rose early to catch the train to Épernay, arrived to a cancelled bus, and trekked the forty-five minutes up a hill and through gorgeous vineyards to Joannès Lioté et Fils, where Darien had arranged a lovely private tour and tasting with Jeremie. We walked back, got lunch, and then the bus back to a tasting at Beaumont des Crayères. We then caught the bus back, found a necessary brasserie to rest in until the return train, and returned to Paris some time in the mid to late evening.
We spent one more day exploring Paris — walking more in the Latin Quarter than I had before — and then on Thursday caught a train to Clermont-Ferrand where we rented a car, met Simon and Ariana for lunch, briefly shopped, and then drove to Auzon to spend four days with my family.
Disclaimer: spending time with family while on a honeymoon is weird. Had we not wanted to see my folks’ house in Auzon, Darien not been looking forward to this for years, and spend time with them in the countryside, we wouldn’t’ve. We did, and it was a great time.
Simon had discussed with us months prior, and asked if we could be around when he proposed to Ariana. This became a few days in Auzon where we had an incredibly time. Darien saw the beautiful village and region for the first time, and I saw what my folks had done and we hope to continue on the house. Darien met — and I reconnected with — friends I hadn’t seen in a decade. We both got a small preview of what life could be like if we chose to rest there for a couple of months, between leases, enjoying the green countryside and birdsong.
In no particular order, we visited the Auberge at Chassignolles, a friend’s garden in Riol,[6] my childhood neighbor’s restaurant La Table du Charbon, the relatively new Café des Simples, and Orfenor. We had a lovely board game night and on another, grilled fish, halloumi, and peaches. We hiked in town, and then around town, and still have more to do. Simon, Ari, Darien, and I took four hours canoeing the Allier. Most importantly, Simon proposed to Ariana at Léotoing and she said “yes!”
Family time over, Darien and I spent a night in Clermont-Ferrand. Our grand meal was a lunch shortly after arrival, at Comptoir Central de Bazars, Harry Lester’s new restaurant. He ran the aforementioned Auberge when I was a child — I remember a party around a whole roast pig, and then playing soccer in the parking lot when I was fourteen — and then moved on to Le Saint Eutrope. I’d visited his bio wine bar once when seeking my last tourist visa, but hadn’t had the privilege of a full meal of his. We let him know in advance that we don’t eat meat, and he prepared a lovely Ray wing with accompanying asparagus, snap peas, and greens, which Darien paired with the local 2022 Festjar! rosé. It couldn’t have been better.
We then continued to Bordeaux this last Wednesday, where I’m now writing. We explored for a day much like in Paris though fortunately not sixteen miles. We met up with my old French professor and photographic inspiration Robin Benzrihem, whom Darien hadn’t yet met. Friday the 27th we toured a Chateau Pape Clément, and the next day we attended photographic exhibit at MAP Galerie. Sunday, we walked the Marché du Quai des Chartrons and took a day trip to Saint Emilion where we climbed the clocher. We’ve taken it easy as a heatwave rolled in, and today took the hottest part of the day in the air conditioning at Cité du Vin, regrouped in our cold and cavelike hotel, and now I’m at a bar writing before we get dinner. At some point we started listening to Elle Reeve’s Black Pill, and it’s been a refrain as we recharge in air conditioning at the hotel. The sun sets between ten and eleven, and I love the extended daylight. We found a delightful bar with good vegetarian options for dinner — tonight, aubergine schnitzel.
Wednesday, we return to Paris. Saturday, to the US. Monday, to work. I’m relaxed, recharged, and can’t wait for our move.
One individual told me that he looked forward to seeing me again and good luck on our move. I had to break the sad and fortunate news that we aren’t moving for nine months, and this is my honeymoon. A good laugh followed. ↩︎
A small airport, actually in Northern Kentucky. ↩︎
We eat fish but not meat, and Darien often prefers vegetarian meals to those with fish, and the majority of restaurants with openings had awfully similar menus. ↩︎
I asked Darien, local expert, if it’s “Houstonite” or “Houstonian” and she told me that it’s probs the latter except that before you can finish saying the word, you’re cut off with “H-Town babeeeeeee.” ↩︎
My dad frequented Grand Hôtel Lévêque when I was a young teenager, and I stayed then and later as a student. It’s not the most banging part of town but it has a sentimentality, and nowadays a tranquility. ↩︎
This town is so teeny that there aren’t numbered street addresses; you just provide the recipient’s name, town, and postal code. ↩︎